I spent seven weeks between Rwanda and Uganda this summer. When someone asks how my trip was, it is simply impossible to convey fully. Most people don’t want what is truly deep and meaningful, they want to know what was fun about it. There’s so much more to it.
I have such a deep attachment for these places that have positively pushed me outside of my comfort zone and learn how to better love and connect with people...by being myself and seeing people for who they are as their own individual. So yes, Rwanda and Uganda are great places in the world full of beautiful sights and adventurous activities, but it is the individuals I met, befriended, and worked with that connect my heart to my experience.
Genocide
Rwandans have lived through some of the darkest atrocities known to man. During the Genocide, shared humanity and love were forgotten as neighbors killed neighbors. Walking through the children’s room in the Genocide Memorial, dedicated to children killed during this time, was one of the most emotionally challenging experiences I’ve ever had. Walking through those halls, the pain of the past was clearly a part of the present as people broke down sobbing and nearby burials were covered in flowers. It is devastating and easy to lose faith in people when confronted by the deep evil that resides within us.
It was impossible to ignore the effects of the Genocide when it occurred so recently. It was impossible to ignore when I learned that the person sitting beside me at dinner had lost her brother because he was killed. Or when an artisan shared that their child, their husband, or their parents were killed. It was tough.
And so, I am in awe of the strength and love expressed by Rwandans today. Never have the concepts of unity, reconciliation, and resiliency become so real to me. I have gained a deeper understanding of forgiveness and love through devastation. I learned that people possess an incredible, undeniable strength of spirit as individuals and when supporting one another.
Living through such hardship has led to some truly beautiful life passions and philosophies. One of the translators working for PICO, Amani, was separated from his family during the Genocide and became a street child. Eventually, he was connected to a school and received support. A few years back, around 20 years following the separation, Amani was reconnected with his mother. He let his experience as a street kid shape him as he now makes it his mission to let those children know they are loved, worthy, and cared for. He recently started the Rukundo Foundation to support street kids through education and mentoring.
I met one of my greatest inspirations in a small village in the middle of Rwanda.
Ruth was the very last artisan that we interviewed and she welcomed us so warmly. She was born into poverty and her parents were killed in the Genocide. She married a farmer and started a family, but they had very little income. Raised by a long-line of artisans, Ruth decided to take matters into her own hands by joining All Across Africa. From here, Ruth was won two major awards from President Paul Kagame and the Women’s Council. The first she received for reconciliation as she brought artisans together from opposing sides of the Genocide. The act of weaving and sharing stories together brought about healing and community. Ruth didn’t stop there; she traveled across the country and brought the poorest, marginalized women in society into weaving in order to positively transform their livelihoods.
Through All Across Africa, Ruth was able to provide her children with education and build a house that she is proud of. She did that all on her own accord. I honestly hope that I can achieve as much as she has one day and impact so many lives. Ruth was radiant.
Rides to Muhanga
I loved the rides to Muhanga from Kigali, a ride that lasted 2 hours. These rides allowed us to visit the AAA basket center and meet various artisan co-ops in the district. During every single ride, I was struck by the beauty of a land of a thousand hills. Along the way we’d catch glimpses of women wearing colorful fabrics from local markets, farmers at work, children passing to and from school, and houses along the road. I loved being apart of this and experiencing the natural beauty that Rwanda has to offer.
But the rides were often filled with paradox. While I was struck by the beauty of the landscape surrounding me, I was simultaneously confronted by the face of poverty. On one of these drives, I happened to see two young boys walking together along the side of the road. If I had to guess, one was around 12 years old and the other was 5 years old. Brothers. What struck me was the way that dirt coated itself around their bodies and the way the older brother was carrying a large bundle of sticks upon his head, sweat streaming down his face as he reached down to grab the hand of his younger brother. As our car passed, my eyes connected with his. A minute later and we were passing a school with students gathered outside. A minute later, and I’m sure he would be passing that school too.
Driving past, merely catching a glimpse. This image lingered in my mind and heart for a long time. It felt uncomfortable and disheartening. I was able to find hope in the work of All Across Africa and the stories of artisans who are able to provide for their families, their children, in a new way.
Views in Muhanga District
First Visit to Basket Center
Going into the field, I longed to connect with artisans and to understand them as individuals. Sometimes this felt uncomfortable and I was fearful that I didn’t know how to do it, especially when we didn’t speak a common language.
I remember feeling overwhelmed during my first visit to the basket house. It was our first full day in Rwanda and I knew very little, if any, Kinyarwanda. Upon entering, Bella and I were instantly surrounded by about 50 artisans weaving at the center. And I had no idea what to do besides flash a timid smile and follow the lead of our translator. I wanted so desperately to connect and the discomfort I felt that first day made me feel like I had failed.
I quickly realized that my response was natural and that I would feel slightly overwhelmed walking into any large group of people I’d never met before! Realizing this set me at ease. Instead of embracing my fear, I pushed myself beyond my comfort zone in my desire to love people. I purposefully greeted the gathered artisans with “mwara mutse” (good morning) when we would arrive and was able to experience joy in this connection.
Bella, Agnes, and me before our flight home
Relationship
All Across Africa staff was so welcoming and kind. They are dedicated workers and it was clear that AAA is a family with a strong sense of community.
Working with Agnes was one of the most powerful experiences for me. Agnes was our translator in Rwanda and we are the same age. I don’t think I can fully convey how great a person Agnes is and how blessed I feel to have become her friend. She is loyal, honest, protective, intelligent, and funny. She is the world’s best translator (not that I have much experience to back this claim) because she is patient, dedicated, and considerate.
She was a support system as she helped Bella and I when we asked her question after question about the language, culture, social institutions, and more. She witnessed our awkward moments of cultural exchange and loved us all the same. We were friends in every sense of the word as we watched Netflix together, talked about books and relationships, and wondered what we would all do with our lives following college graduation. I love Agnes and I am so thankful for this friendship that allowed for a deep connection.
The relationships with Agnes and AAA staff also helped bridge the gap in my mind between city-living and rural poverty. I personally knew people from a range of socio-economic statuses (SES) which was incredibly powerful in challenging any stereotypes and generalizations that could be made about an entire country.
Hospitality
I received an abundance of love and joy throughout my time in Rwanda and Uganda, strongly delivered through hospitality.
Exuberant.
Being in Uganda was like being enveloped in a warm embrace. The atmosphere was charged with vibrant energy, love, and acceptance. It was easy to feel comfortable with every co-op we visited and I often found myself laughing and smiling from our exchanges. As part of their culture, every co-op leader warmly welcomed us with a generous meal that we all partook in together. It was a great sense of togetherness despite our small time together.
Acceptance.
In Rwanda, artisans were very respectful and quick to share to a smile. One co-op in the western region greeted us with song and sang us a message of safe travels as we departed. As they were singing, they presented each Bella, Agnes, Benon, and me with a basket they had made. We never spoke the same language, but there wasn’t always a need to.
Shared humanity was enough.
While I hope this conveys a lot of my experience...I know there is so much more that needs to be conveyed and this is only the beginning. The direction of this reflection has shifted many times from my original intentions; the truth and heart of my experience in Rwanda and Uganda decided to beautifully emerge and my heart is beating bigger for it.
Inhangane Ruli Cooperative that welcomed us with song & baskets